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July 24, 2005
Tasting: 1996 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Montelena Estate
A simply superb bottle of wine. Retains youthful dark color. Aromas of spiced fruits. A laser-focused beam of black cherry and oak with a wrapper of mocha coffee, plum, pine, and cigar box. Drinking at its peak. Highly recommended.
In my opinion, Chateau Montelena has been and remains one of the best, most committed wineries in the Napa Valley.
Posted by matchvineyards at July 24, 2005 12:53 PM
July 12, 2005
TTB proposes change to vintage dating rule
Currently, all wine sold in the US with a vintage date is required to contain at least 95% grapes from the stated vintage. The Wine Institute, a trade association of California wineries (Match is not currently a member), has proposed that this requirement be relaxed to 85% for wines labeled with a State, multistate, county or multicounty appellation of origin (or foreign equivalent). Wines labeled from an AVA would be unaffected. So, in the case of our wines, Napa Valley AVA and Spring Mountain District AVA wines, we would not be directly affected by this change. However, other vintners' wines labeled "California" would see immediate changes in how they can make wine.
What do you think??? I'm mulling it over. Is this a positive or negative change for me as a vintner and/or as a wine consumer. Perhaps this is a case where those two roles have differing interests.
There are many points to consider. Here are a few:
The change could improve the quality level and consistency of California labeled wines possibly providing increased competition for my brand. However, as a consumer, I might see a benefit in the availabilty of higher quality, value-priced brands. For example, a winery drawing grapes from around the state (carrying the California designation) would be able to add up to 15% volume from better vintages. Value-priced brands could develop more of a consistent house-style.
At the same time, that same benefit will not be available to me. That's possibly a moot point since we here at Match are striving to make wines that reflect a specific vintage and vineyard -- the "terroir" if you will. In my opinion, that's a big part of the romance and attraction of premium wines.
Some might say that increased quality or consistency of value wines helps the entire industry since it might attract more people to the world of wine enjoyment or increase per capita consumption. I agree to a point. One reason wine sales may lag so far below beer in this country is the perception by many consumers that it is difficult to choose a wine. If quality continues to rise, and more wines are reliable choices year-in year-out, then consumption could go up. On the other hand, consumer hesitency to choose wine is only partly determined by the perception that you have to be educated to pick a wine. Marketing, packaging, and public education on the benefits of wine as a beverage and the perfect compliment to a meal are also key.
I'm holding off writing the TTB with my comments because I want to give it more thought, but right now, I'm leaning towards opposing this rule change. Wineries already have the ability to blend multiple vintages in order to achieve the stated goals. They are simply not allowed to vintage date such wines. Shouldn't the onus be on these wineries to market their product in such a way as to remove any stigma from a non-vintage-dated wine rather than to change the rules and dilute the meaning of vintage as the public perceives it? The public will be confused, especially since vintage will mean two different measurements depending on whether the wine is labeled from a specific AVA?
If you've made up your mind whether you are "for" or "against" this rule change, you can email the TTB at nprm@ttb.gov.
Posted by matchvineyards at July 12, 2005 11:52 AM
July 09, 2005
Tasting: 2002 Hartford Court Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
Crisp, light, and refreshing with citrus, apple, and light creamy oak. Exhibits the California style without being overbearing. Good value and recommended at $15.99 retail.
Posted by matchvineyards at July 09, 2005 09:10 PM
July 08, 2005
Tasting: 1997 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Fay Vineyard
This wine continues to be tough to get a handle on. I like it well enough, but from such a famed vineyard and great vintage, I always expect more.
The wine has gained complexity since my last tasting a few years ago. The fruit is sweet and abundant. However, whereas before, I found the wine closed, the tannins now exhibit a dry, dusty quality that I found awkward. Continue to cellar.
Posted by matchvineyards at July 08, 2005 10:10 PM
